Choosing a Suit – Cloth type

When you’ve got to grips with what weight you want a suit to be, the next step is colour and pattern.

Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsted (where the fibres are combed before spinning) and woollen (where they are not). These can be woven in a number of ways producing flannel, tweed, garbardine, and fresco amongst others.

Cashmere or a cashmere mix is considered a luxury to the outsider, and as much as it is, it’s worth knowing it can give some unwanted sheen to a suit cloth. Consequently more of an Italian look and less of an English. If you’re after a matte cloth, go for a 100% wool.

 

 

The Super cloths above Super 130’s are ultra fine, and are made from a finer yarn. It leads to a soft and light suit cloth to wear. A nice luxury for hot climates and a wardrobe with a good rotation.

 

Most business suits are blue or grey. Some think black is an option, but in my view it isn’t. I’m happy to see it in Evening wear, on the red carpet and as part of a restaurant uniform, but for anything else? No thanks.

 

 

 

Building a warbrobe is lots of fun, and there is a correct plan of attack. Unlike a flatpack from B&Q, there aren’t many instructions other than to say:

 

Get the basics in through block colours, then heavier texture, then pattern.

 

Here are a few options to get you cracking:

 

BLOCK COLOUR

 

Serge

A classic twill fabric that has diagonal lines and often used for suits, blazers, military uniforms and trench coats, it’s a good ‘go to’ cloth for your first classic solid navy suit.  Rich in colour, it’s only negative is that over time it can become shiny. To avoid this press the suit over a cloth.

 

Pic n’ Pic

Another classic. At distance, this again looks like a clean colour but, the colour has more depth due to it’s different tones. Often likened to ‘Salt and Pepper’ it works particulary well in grey. This combined with a white shirt and navy tie is an absolute winner.

 

HEAVIER TEXTURE

 

Birdseye

This, as the name suggests, is a design in the shape of a birds-eye. It promises a conservative look while exploring texture and a subtle two tone colour. It can be more interesting, and sits well when combined with a shirt and tie that are perhaps more flat in texture.

 

Herringbone

This describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern resembling a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it looks like the skeleton of the herring fish. It gets picked up by the light when wearing it and does make for an eye catching suit. But for me, I prefer it in casual wear like tweeds and linens.   

 

PATTERN

 

Chalk, Cable, Rope and Pin Stripes

Once you’ve built up your block colours and textures, the next place to visit is stripes. Chalk stripes are more often than not on a flannel.  Cable and Rope usually on worsted and Pin on both flannel and worsteds. When choosing a stripe consider your own stature. If you are a small frame then don’t choose a stripe that is too strong or wide.

 

Checks

These are the last port of call once you’ve ticked all the other boxes. A check suit is often considered a little more casual. But they can be really smart nonetheless. They need to be teamed with solid colours for the shirt and tie to get the most out of them. Go on… go for it!

 

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Choosing a Suit – Cloth weight

So you need a suit. It needs to be smart, functional, fit for purpose, and, oh yes, needs to make you look and feel like a film star. It’s a straight forward ‘ask’ really. Isn’t it?

When you buy Bespoke or Made to Measure, the tailor’s job is to make you look a million dollars, but your task is equally as important, to choose the cloth.

A few pieces of advice:

• Choose a suit cloth in the morning. The light is better. It’s also good to ask to see the cloth bunch outside and away from artificial light. It’s worth noting the change of character a cloth has in artificial and natural light.

• When you’re selecting from a bunch, bear in mind that when a suit is made up the cloth will appear lighter because you’ll be seeing it on a bigger scale. Think about this particularly if you’re considering light greys and blue blues. Neither you or your tailor wants an “Oh-oh” moment.

• There is a lot to be said for choosing a cloth as heavy as you can bear. A tailor will tell you this because it helps with the way the suit drapes (hangs) and ultimately looks. However, be practical. Your suit needs to serve it’s purpose.

• Finally, while perhaps not quite as important but useful, have a rough idea of what you are looking for before you set off. Some tailors will have upwards of 4,000 cloths to choose from and you might soon become the kid in a sweet shop.

 

To get you going, answer these questions:

• What colour?
• What are you going to wear it for?
• When are you going to wear it? (Whether it be home or abroad in different climates.)

 

Cloth is defined by it’s weight, and usually in ounces. If in grams simply divide by 30 to get the weight in ounces.  As the years have gone by, suits have become lighter and demand for the big hitters (18/19oz) has dwindled.

So, here it is in a nutshell…

7oz – 9oz is a light weight, great for the height of summer here in the UK and other hot climates abroad.

9.5oz – 11oz is a light to mid weight.  Good for the cross over seasons. Moving from Spring to Summer and late Summer to Autumn.

11oz – 12oz is a mid weight and my favourite weight. Perfect for the majority of the year – perhaps 9/10 months of the year. If you’re starting to build your wardrobe, there is no better weight to start with.

12oz – 13oz is still a mid weight but with more of a punch. A sound option for about 8 months of the year, it’s another all-rounder, a little heavier but still an option you will get a lot of wear from.

14oz –19oz is a heavy weight. As mentioned, there is less called for these weights. A tailors dream because they make up so well, these weights are nothing nicer on a cold Autumn or Winter’s day.

As a rule of thumb, if you’re in any doubt of your selection, ask for some swatches, go home and have a think. A Bespoke or Made to Measure suit is a big investment, so take your time in choosing. You can even ask me if you like!

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Cashmere Hats and Gloves

Cashmere. Has it made it to your wardrobe? Maybe it’s your scarf, your jumper, or a proportion of your overcoat?

Cashmere is collected during the spring moulting season when the goats naturally shed their winter coat. In the Northern Hemisphere, the goats moult as early as March and as late as May.

Cashmere wool fibre used for clothing and other textile articles is obtained from the neck region of Cashmere and other goats. With that in mind it is no wonder that small quantities lead to a higher price point for a finished garment!

For the fine underdown to be sold and processed further, it must be de-haired. De-hairing is a mechanical process that separates the coarse hairs from the fine hair. After de-hairing, the resulting “cashmere” is ready to be dyed and converted into yarn, fabrics and garments.

There is a thought that “pilling” (when it can sometimes bobble) is a negative aspect of buying into cashmere, but while a characteristic,  I can assure you that if you look after it, the positives outweigh the negatives hugely. It is lighter, softer and warmer than any other wool used in clothing.

What’s caught my eye are these hat and gloves from N.Peal. Beautifully made, they are a winner. Plus everyone knows that you can’t get enough chocolate at this time of year. Feast to your heart’s content.

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Wearing a Poppy

The history bit:

The use of the poppy was inspired by the World War I poem In Flanders Fields. It refers to the many poppies that were the first flowers to grow in the churned-up earth of soldiers’ graves in Flanders, a region of Europe that overlies parts of Belgium, France, and the Netherlands. Canadian physician and Lt Col. John McCrae is understood to have written it on 3 May 1915 after witnessing the death of his friend (a fellow soldier) the day before.

Inspired by the poem, American teacher Moina Bell Michael went on to sell silk poppies to friends to raise money for the ex-service community. By 1920 the poppy was proclaimed the national emblem of remembrance in the US, and in the UK. Ever since it has been adopted by an ever increasing community, and last year it is said Britons bought over 26m. A Royal British Legion team of about 50 people—most of them disabled former British military personnel—work all year round to make millions of poppies at a factory in Richmond, England.

Quick fact:

In England, Wales, and Northern Ireland, the poppies have two red petals, a green paper leaf and are mounted on a green plastic stem. In Scotland the poppies are curled and have four petals with no leaf.

 

Where to wear them:

The poppy is a ‘must’ at this time of year and people are all too ready to pass comment on how to wear them.  Some people say left, as it’s worn over the heart. Others say only the Queen and Royal Family are allowed to wear a poppy on the right, which surely can’t be true. Then there is the school of thought that says men should wear theirs on the left and women on the right, as is the traditional custom with a badge or brooch. There are even opinions on the correct position of the green leaf. That it should be pointing at 11 o’clock so as to recognise the importance of the eleventh hour.  The Royal British Legion spokesman says there is no right or wrong side “other than to wear it with pride”. That’s good enough for me.

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Tweed All About It

I remember when the mere mention of tweed conjured up thoughts of being stuffy, boring and old fashioned. Something that was reserved for the next generation. But both smart and practical, for me, Tweed has since become something that should be making an appearance in every man’s wardrobe.

 

The original name of the cloth was tweel, meaning twill. It being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. About 1830, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm about some tweels. The London merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the river Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. Subsequently the goods were advertised as Tweed, and the name has remained ever since.

Being robust and versatile, it makes for a great material for more than just a suit or jacket. Upholstery and even curtains are a smart way of employing the delights of Tweed. Or even…

I’m a big fan of this tweed Man Bag by Catherine Aitken. Smart and practical (there are those words again), but what I really like is it’s sense of humour in uterlising a tweed jacket and reusing the jacket pockets that were.  Great fun!

Approximate dimensions are 36cms wide by 30cms high and 8cms deep. Cost £135.

For more, have a look at: www.MadeByHandsOfBritain.com

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Doing The Write Thing

Pens. We all use them, and even in a world that is becoming evermore reliant on computers, iPad’s, iPhone’s, the web and email, to my mind, receiving something that is hand written is still held in a higher regard than from any of the forementioned. And quite rightly so. There is still nothing nicer than an invite or a letter which has an element of ‘pen to paper’. It just feels more personal.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a huge fan of technology and all that it delivers. I have a computer, iPad, iPhone and I seem to be ever so slightly obsessed with social media. And like you I would guess, there isn’t a day that goes by that I’m not sending emails, typing letters, in fact just tapping away on a keyboard.

So when it comes to writing, are we entering a time when pens become evermore unimportant?

 

Ancient Indians were the first to use the pen. According to ancient text the earliest of pens made in India used bird feathers, bamboo sticks, etc. The old literature of Puranas, Ramayana and Mahabharta used this kind of pen roughly 500 BC. Ancient Egyptians developed writing on papyrus scrolls when scribes used thin reed brushes or reed pens from the Juncus Maritimus or sea rush. Reed pens continued to be used until the Middle Ages although they were slowly replaced by quills from about the 7th century. The reed pen, generally made from bamboo, is still used in some parts of Pakistan by young students and is used to write on small boards made of timber.

The Quill pen was used in Judea to write some of the Dead Sea Scrolls which date back to around 100 BC. The scrolls were written in Hebrew dialects with bird feathers or quills. After the fall of the Roman Empire , Europeans had difficulty in obtaining reeds^[ and began to use quills. Quill pens were still widely used in the 18th century, and were used to write and sign the Constitution of the United States in 1787.

So why should you have a good pen?  Firstly, and most importantly, a good pen is a joy to write with. When you find one that suits your style of writing, writing becomes a pleasure. It’s comfortable and dependable in equal measure.

But as funny as it sounds, having a good pen is a bit of a status symbol. Accessories play an important role in reinforcing ‘brand you’, and having a good pen in your inside pocket is an extention of your efforts in other directions. Rest assured, people notice. Rather like a good quality business card.

Not that it’s a pen they’re sparring over, but I’m reminded of the business card scene in American Psycho. Click here to view

There are three types of pen we all mainly use:

The Ballpoint pen

This dispenses viscous oil-based ink by rolling a small hard sphere, usually 0.7–1.2 mm and made of brass, steel or tungsten carbide. The ink dries almost immediately on contact with paper. This type of pen is generally inexpensive and reliable. It has replaced the fountain pen as the most popular tool for everyday writing. One common type of ballpoint pen is the erasable pen, invented in the 1980s.

The Fountain pen.

This uses water-based liquid ink delivered through a nib. The ink flows from a reservoir through a “feed” to the nib, then through the nib, due to capillary action and gravity. The nib has no moving parts and delivers ink through a thin slit to the writing surface. A pen with a refillable reservoir may have a mechanism, such as a piston, to draw ink from a bottle through the nib, or it may require refilling with an eye dropper. Refillable reservoirs, also known as cartridge converters, are available for some pens designed to use disposable cartridges.

The Rollerball

This dispenses a water-based liquid or gel ink through a ball tip similar to that of a ballpoint pen. The less-viscous ink is more easily absorbed by paper than oil-based ink, and the pen moves more easily across a writing surface. The rollerball pen was initially designed to combine the convenience of a ballpoint pen with the smooth “wet ink” effect of a fountain pen.

Founded by the stationer Claus-Johannes Voss, the banker Alfred Nehemias and the engineer August Eberstein in 1908, the company began as the Simplo Filler Pen company producing up-market pens in the Schanzen district of Hamburg. Their first model was the Rouge Et Noir in 1909 followed in 1910 by the pen that was later to give the company its new name, Montblanc. The first pen (a fountain pen) known as the Meisterstück (English: “Masterpiece,” the name used for export) was produced in 1924. Today Montblanc brand is on other goods besides pens, including watches, jewel, fragrance, leather goods and eyewear.

The company was acquired by Dunhill in 1977, following which lower price pens were dropped and the brand was used on a wide range of luxury goods other than pens.

Today Montblanc forms part of the Richemont group. Its sister companies include luxury brands Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chloé, and Baume et Mercier. Montblanc is owned, through Richmont, by the South African Rupert Family.

Not to say this is a must, but for me, the pen that I’m never without is my Montblanc Meisterstück Le Grand ballpoint. It’s a classic that with a thick nib (you can choose of course) just glides across the paper. It’s a pleasure to write with.

It’s true, we do put pen to paper less than our predecessors did, but when we do write, it is nice to do it in style.

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Freshen Up

When you hear doom and gloom like this, its no surprise that freshening up the wardrobe with a new suit or jacket – well it can probably wait, right?

So here’s the thing…

It’s true. Men have smartened up their act in recent years. This has been down to a combination of wanting to give the impression that they’re doing well in difficult times, and in an office environment, that they are in the right frame of mind to take on the challenges that may lie at work. But how do it on a budget? Simple, you don’t have to take the plunge with a big suit purchase. Accessorise.

Accessories can do a great deal to freshen up a wardrobe without the cost of a heavy outlay. They are a way of demonstrating personal flair as well as different looks with the wardrobe you already have in place.

Only few years ago there was a distinct downward turn in tie sales. Men just didn’t feel the need to wear them, other than for when they had to wear them, perhaps at client meetings and other functions. But with a change of mood in business, ties were and are back.

Guys, you need at least 6-8 in the wardrobe so you can rotate. For me, Hermes offer some of the best printed ties in the world but it is reflected in the price.

If you need to pick a few up and Jermyn Street is your usual tipple, remember to pop by in January and July. It’s sale time, and if you wait to the final week (usually the end of those months) you might just be able to find some great ties for a bargain. (N.B. If it’s pink and orange with red and lilac spots, don’t be tempted by the price. It may well have made it to the final week in sale for good reason!

Tie pins, lapel pins and hats are all down to personal preference, but what really has seen resurgence is the pocket square. It offers a touch of easy, affordable, style. A point to note is that it doesn’t need to match the tie you wear, but to complement it. It can also lift a look that doesn’t include a tie.

But there is an element of not being seen to be too much of a ‘dandy’. ‘Understated style’ continues to reign.

Fashion advice is everywhere, through all the channels now open to us. Blogs, websites, magazines and other Social Media. Opinion is everywhere telling you what is the ‘must have’ thing for this season.   But while Fashion revolves, Style remains, and to a large extent the art of accessorising is not about ‘Fashion’ as it’s more deep rooted than that.

If you buy the finishing touches, it will breath life back into the clothes you have, and suddenly give you more options and looks than you thought you had.

Make sure you can say you’ve got the below covered:

A good quality white shirt, and make sure it is ‘white’– nothing looks sharper.

Collar bones – to maintain the collar shape throughout the day

Ties – Classic and elegant options. Blue’s, Burgundy’s and Pink’s

Cufflinks – Avoid the cheap elastic knots. Choose a smart, timeless and versatile cufflink.

Pocket Squares – White is very smart and goes with everything. Use colour when you’re feeling more confident with what you’re doing / matching to.

Shoes – So important, and the one thing men tend to forget. Keep them clean and in a good state of repair.

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150th Anniversary of the Tux

BURLINGTON ARCADE CELEBRATES 150^TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE TUXEDO

Exhibition: 10^th – 22^nd September

 

London’s stunning Burlington Arcade is hosting an exhibition celebrating the 150^th Anniversary of The Tuxedo. The ‘Little Black Jacket’ exhibition, in collaboration with London College of Fashion (LCF), will be exhibited in Burlington Arcade from 10^th – 22^nd September and showcase heritage pieces from renowned Tuxedo wearers Frank Sinatra and Truman Capote, alongside inspiring reinterpretations for the 21^st century.

Visitors can discover more about the history of this very British style icon, a garment that effortlessly sums up traditional values of Britishness, craftsmanship and sophisticated style. The exhibition showcases an exclusive selection of heritage Tuxedo pieces, including pattern pieces from the fabulous Frank Sinatra and the original tuxedo made for Truman Capote to wear at his infamous Black & White Ball.

These pieces are displayed alongside Tuxedos created by talented LCF Bespoke Tailoring students. Shop windows throughout the Arcade also display stylish black and white photography of fashion superstars wearing their favourite Tuxedos, including Chairman of The British Fashion Council Harold Tillman, supermodel Marie Helvin and musician Mr Hudson.

Harold Tillman, Chairman of the British Fashion Council, comments “The Tuxedo and Burlington Arcade are two British icons that remain the epitome of timeless fashion. I can’t think of a more fitting environment to display this fantastic show, which is a perfect example of some of the finest British craftsmanship”.

The exhibition will then travel to New York, where it will be displayed at the Tuxedo Historical Society, before embarking on an international tour in 2012. With a huge resurgent interest in menswear and tailoring, this Autumn’s Tuxedo tour is the ideal opportunity to celebrate this most British of style icons.

Worth a look!

 

Tuxedo at Burlington Arcade: Saturday 10^th – Thursday 22^nd September

Mon-Wed: 08.00-18.30

Thu: 08.00-19.00

Fri: 08.00-18.30

Sat: 09.00-18.30

Sun: 11.00-17.00

About London College of Fashion:

London College of Fashion has an international reputation as a leading provider of fashion education, research and consultancy. The unique portfolio of specialist courses range in level, from short courses to Postgraduate.

About the Burlington Arcade:

Burlington Arcade is a truly enduring destination in the heart of Mayfair, uniting Piccadilly and Bond Street. It is a place where old and new worlds meet, united by a common thread of exceptional quality, authenticity, bespoke craftsmanship and creativity.

The longest and most beautiful covered shopping street in Britain, the Burlington Arcade has been heralded as an historic and architectural masterpiece and a true luxury landmark in London ever since it was first unveiled to great acclaim in 1819. As Britain’s first shopping arcade, it has led the way in retail trends and remains a pioneer to this day.

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Made By Hands Of Britain

I know, I know, it’s September and far too early to be thinking about Christmas. But….

I was asked if I’d write about a site called MadeByHandsOfBritain.com which is a celebration of products made here in the UK, and I am more than happy to do so. As the years have gone by, companies have done their best to cost-cut by moving production abroad to help the bottom line. It’s worth noting that quality is not always comprimised. But when the recession hit, there was a sense that the consumer was starting to take notice of what they were buying, it’s quality, and where that product was coming from. This mentality remains and will continued to grow.

With over 180 craftspeople already offering their product on MadeByHandsOfBritain.com, there is a sense that one is supporting quality home-grown craftsmanship and product. And long may this continue.

As we venture into Autumn, Tweed becomes a topic for conversation and usually with talk of a jacket. But with Harris Tweed being such a hardy cloth, it makes for a fantastic material for other products.

Meet Catherine Aitken. Catherine already has had one career as a successful film and television producer. Her love of designing and creating her own clothes and accessories fell by the wayside as her passion for producing film took hold, and it wasn’t until she created bags as a film promotional tool for a trip to Cannes Film Festival, that Catherine’s love of making was rekindled.  That particular film never got made, but a new career was born instead, and Catherine gave up film production two years ago to go full time as a designer. From her small studio in Leith, she creates designs that are sold through her internet boutique, into shops and galleries.

Catherine’s washbags have caught my eye. So smart, and a great gift at a reasonable price.

Gent’s Washbag Hunting Macleod Harris Tweed

Waterproof lining and the Tweed has been treated to be water and stain resistant. It can be given a gentle low temperature wash in the machine. Strong and stylish and very practical.

Approximate Dimensions: 20cms long x 15 wide and 8 cms high

£35

Gent’s Washbag Herringbone Harris Tweed

Washbag in a classic herringbone of black and ivory.  Waterproof lining and the tweed has been treated to be water and stain resistant. It can be given a gentle low temperature wash in the machine. Strong and stylish and very practical.

Approximate Dimensions: 20cms long x 15 wide and 8 high

£35

www.MadeByHandsOfBritain.com

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Fin’s For Him

There’s something quite reassuring when you come across a brand that fits with who you are, as opposed to you feeling a need to fit with the brand. For those of us who wear the suit, shirt, and tie combo during the week, black leather shoes are the final ingredient. But what about the evening and the weekends? Some will find themselves stuck in a “work-mode” pair of lace ups that just look like a fish out of water when paired with jeans, chinos, or cords (pending season.) And then there are trainers. Great to dress down with, but you’re a smart, style conscious professional! Right?

Fin’s is the brainchild of London girl Alexandra Finlay. The brand was born from a desire to provide her boy friends with a classic summer loafer that fell between Bond Street and the High Street. The result has been a collection of footwear and accessories that stays true to Finlay’s mantra of “Simple, Classic, Affordable and Fuss-Free”. 

Fin’s launched in 2008, and has quickly gained cult status with a loyal following across the globe. All the suede moccasins are hand-stitched in a family-run factory in Portugal, and all the accessories are made in Italy. Whilst the Fin’s brand has become synonymous with summer holidays, Fin launched a range of “Shoedrobe Staples”, and whilst they cater for the office with their Oxfords, for me it’s the suedes that really are a delight.

Style is often a matter of opinion, but sometimes it is a fact and what Fin’s does so well is offer a shoe that is stylish and so wearable in equal measure.

Espadrilles have shown real authority this summer, even away from the beach, and the ‘Finspadrille’ was and is another “fuss-free” shoe to embrace during the summer months.

But with Autumn calling with an ever louder voice the ‘George’ suede loafer at £95 and the ‘Chisholm’ suede loafer at £175, in brown and chocolate brown respectively – these are real winners. Put them with anything, and you will have accomplished everything one wants from a casual shoe: Something that is smart, easy, affordable, and ‘you’.

www.finsforhim.com

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